Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Scout Trailer

I have been feeling the need to buy a truck lately so that I can haul gear, but it has to be a 4-door truck so I can take 5-6 people as well.  Unfortunately, a truck isn't in my personal budget right now, and probably won't be for quite some time.  Our family minivan is slowly dying and will need to be replaced soon, but it will be replaced with a suburban type vehicle that holds 8 people, is 4-wheel drive, and can tow a trailer (I have 5 kids, so an extended cab truck just wouldn't cut it).  So then, if I am able to borrow the suburban from my wife for a weekend campout with the scouts, then I'll be able to take lots of boys, but we don't have a trailer to haul gear.

We've been looking at buying a trailer for quite some time for our troop, but haven't been able to afford one with our limited troop funds.  We thought we may be able to get one this year, but it's just not going to work.  So we're going to try to save some $ for next year to get one.

We originally were looking at a used, "pay phone trailer" offered on some local classifieds.  As you can see from the photo below, it has bat doors on either side, with pay phones inside.  We would take out the phones of course, and then build a kitchen on one side so that when we open the bat door (which would serve as a canopy), we could fold out a table that was hooked to the trailer and have access to all our kitchen stuff.  The other side was to be access from the side of the trailer to everything else.
Pay Phone Trailer offered on some local classifieds
The guy was asking $1,500 for it, but once we called him and told him what we wanted it for, he was willing to drop it down to $1,000.  Unfortunately, it is only 5' wide by 9' long.  Which would be a good size for towing behind a small SUV, but not really big enough to haul the gear for 10-20 scouts plus leaders.

I talked to another troop in my area that has a trailer.  They have a similar number of scouts, and have a 7' wide by 14' long trailer, and they said they wouldn't ever go smaller than that.  They haven't built hardly any shelves inside because they want to have the ability to haul whatever they want.  Sometimes they fill it full of bicycles for a biking trip, etc.

So, in looking into larger trailers, I found the one below:
6x12 Trailer
 It's a little smaller than the other troop's trailer, and it's brand new for $2,200.  Hopefully we can find a trailer that's used and a good size for closer to the $900 mark (or less would be better of course).  New ones run from around $2,200 to $4,500 for the above trailer.  We don't need anything fancy, just lightweight, and waterproof so we can store gear, and haul gear in it.


Monday, May 16, 2011

Backpacking Overnighter - Shoes

I have been on backpacking trips with the high top hiking boots like you're "supposed" to wear, but since I haven't ever had any problems with my ankles (and I've put them through a lot of wear and tear), I prefer to use running shoes.  They're way more comfortable, more lightweight, and dry faster when they get wet.  I tend to get less blisters, and I just feel better all day.
Typical Hiking Shoe/Boot

I once read a study that said that an extra pound of weight in your shoes is equivalent to 5 extra pounds in your backpack.  So if I can take off an extra 2-4 pounds of weight by not using a leather, high top stiff hiking boot (size 14), and using a lightweight, flexible, breathable running shoe, I'm going to do it!
More Lightweight & Comfortable Running Shoe

I realize that some people have ankle problems, and therefore feel more comfortable with the extra support a high top type hiking boot gives them.  And that's fine and you should always go with what is best for you.  But, once you try hiking in running shoes, you may never go back!

Five Finger Shoes
I haven't tried the "toe" type shoes, that have spots for each of your toes and are supposed to make you feel like you're hiking barefoot, but with support and protection.  I would like to try one sometime, but am waiting for prices to go down.


BACK TO BACKPACKING OVERNIGHTER

Friday, May 6, 2011

Backpacking Overnighter - Backpacking Foods

Somehow I got a years subscription to Backpacker Magazine awhile ago, and really enjoyed reading through the articles about all the awesome adventures awaiting out there!  But, one of the best things I got out of it was some of their backpacking food ideas.  I ripped them out of the magazine and filed them away for the next backpacking trip I'd go on.  There was simple stuff like using the tuna in a pouch from the store and adding pasta and seasonings to make a pasta meal.  The tuna weighed some, but in all reality, if you're backpacking where you might be able to fish, then you could do the pasta with the fish you catch just as easy.

We've tried the packages of freeze-dried meals (mostly the dinners) and have done just fine - in fact usually had too much food and ended up taking some of it home.  The nice thing about them is that they are so lightweight, and that for most of them, you boil water in a pot and dump it into the pouch the dinner comes in and let it sit for 10 minutes or so.  Then you either eat or serve out of the pouch and you don't get the pot dirty.  The bummer is that it is expensive.
Freeze Dried Meal, 2 servings for $8
So, here's a list of meals I typically try to pull from for backpacking trips.  Feel free to use whatever you want, and add whatever you want on your own trip.

Breakfasts
  • Instant Oatmeal
  • Instant Grits
  • Instant Cream of Wheat
Lunches
  • Munchies
    • GORP (Good Old Raisins and Peanuts)
    • Granola Bars
    • String Cheese (individually packaged will stay good for over a week, just in your bag)
    • Crackers (a sleeve of Ritz will go a long ways)
      • Cheese to go with the Ritz (weighs a lot, but it's pretty good)
      • Summer Sausage with the Ritz (weighs a lot, but it's worth it)
    • Jerky
  • Bagels
Dinners
  • Lipton Noodle packets are lightweight, and "just add hot water"
  • Hamburger Helper are also good, but you'll need to precook the hamburger and dehydrate it beforehand
  • Raman Noodles
  • Stove-Top Stuffing (sounds weird, but it's good)
  • Tin-foil dinners if you're not hiking too far (heavy, and the meat may go bad if it's left out too long)
  • Freeze-Dried Meals
  • Macaroni and Cheese
  • Pasta Creation (whatever secret recipes you have that you might be able to adapt for low weight)
Eating Utensils

I like to bring up just a bowl, cup and spoon.  Almost everything you eat while backpacking can be eaten with just a bowl, cup and spoon.  You may need to use your pocketknife at times, but you'll get along alright.
For my bowl and cup, I shop at a dollar store, and buy a plastic (tupperware type) bowl and cup (they usually come in 4/dollar packs).  They are totally lightweight, and the plastic keeps your hands from getting burnt on hot liquids (compared to the metal scout mess kits).  On my cup, I measure and mark beforehand lines on the cup to measure a cup or 2 of water.
For my spoon, I actually use the Light My Fire Spork.  It's only a couple of bucks, and it's pretty sturdy and long enough to use for a mixing spoon if need be.
Light My Fire Spork
Cooking Utensils

I can get by on most trips with just a pot to boil water in.  Sometimes I'll bring a pot, and a small kettle if we're going to have 2 stoves.  My pot is 2 Liters, and my kettle is 0.9 Liter.  Both are aluminum and weigh hardly anything.  I will sometimes bring a large, lightweight spoon to stir contents in the pot, but it's not always necessary.

0.9 Liter lightweight kettle (Primus, $20)

Thursday, May 5, 2011

Backpacking Overnighter - Sleeping Bags

It's interesting when you get looking into different types of sleeping bags because they have these nice temperature ratings so you know what temperature you can use the bag in.  A Zero Degree bag is fine to sleep in if it's down to 0 Degrees F, right?  How simple is that?

Unfortunately, it's not as simple as you might think - especially since each company uses their own temperature rating system so you can't even compare companies sleeping bag ratings!  I've been in a zero degree bag when it was 40 degrees outside and been cold all night before.  But I've been in non-rated Walmart specials ($20 Coleman Brand Sleeping Bag) down to the 30's and been fine.
$20 Coleman Sleeping Bag

My night in a zero degree bag was in a High Peak brand bag.  I know other people that have them and seem to do fine, but mine sure should be rated for something more like 50 degrees or something.  I tried to get the lightest bag I could find, and still be a zero degree bag, and that's what I found.  I bought it on ebay for $95, and when I opened it up, I was amazed at how thin the padding was.  I ruffled it out the best I could, but it was still a thin lining.  So initially I was amazed that something that thin could keep me warm in zero degree weather, but after my first couple of trips, I found out that it doesn't.  I later attended a camping class where the speaker mentioned the High Peak brand of sleeping bags, and how they are rated wrong.
High Peak Zero Degree Bag

So, next time I saved up my money and got a more expensive sleeping bag, and I decided to go for a -15 degree bag instead - just in case.  So I put together a list of the bags I was considering, their weights, sizes, colors, fill material, etc. and then waited for a sale.  When I got my 20% off coupon for REI, I jumped on it and bought the bag I wanted.  It was a Mountain Hardware Lamina -15 mummy bag.  It weighs more than my High Peak bag, and is more bulky, but it sure keeps me warm!  I've had it on 2 snow cave campouts so far and have loved it!  Retail right now is $225 ($235 since I got the long model).
Mountain Hardware -15 Lamina Bag

Now, do you have to get an expensive bag to be comfortable?   No way!  I chose to because I know I'll be camping for a long time to come and I've been through quite a few other bags.  I've been totally comfortable in my Coleman - Walmart special as well.  Just make sure that if you are getting it to keep you warm, that it has some bulk to it.  If it's paper thin, then it cannot keep you warm - it just doesn't work that way.

Down Fill vs. Synthetic Fill?

That is a personal opinion in my mind.  Here's some of the criteria I used to determine what I would buy:


Down Fill:

  • Is a better insulator
  • Is more lightweight
  • Cost more (much more in some instances)
  • Does not keep you warm when wet
Synthetic Fill:
  • Not as good insulator
  • weighs slightly more than down
  • cost less than down
  • still works to some degree when wet
I decided that for less money I could get a bag that would work almost as well in dry situations, but work better when wet.  It does weigh a bit more, but not much.  It is also more bulky than down would have been, but it works great.

Inner Lining

There are two different types of lining in sleeping bags, Flannel, and Nylon.  Here's my thoughts:

  • Flannel may feel warmer when you first get into the bag, but if you're wearing sweats, they will stick to the flannel and you'll end up tied in a knot by morning.
  • Nylon-type lining is easier to roll around, get into, and dry out if it gets wet.
  • I prefer the nylon lining, but my kids think that the nylon is too cold.


Care for Sleeping Bags

Whenever possible, don't store sleeping bags all wrapped up tight in their stuff sack.  It causes the filling to bunch up together and leave gaps without filling.  I store my new sleeping bag under the bed, opened up.  Then when i go on a trip I stuff it in the sack just before I go.  Once I get to camp I set up my tent and pad, and shake out my sleeping bag on the pad to get some air back into the filling.

I know some people store their sleeping bags in the stuff sack, and then open it up and put it in the dryer before a trip to fluff it back up again, but I prefer to keep it stored loose.

Always dry out your sleeping bag after every trip.  Believe it or not, you sweat at night, and your body gives off moisture.  The inside of your bag is slightly moist after a night of camping.  Unzip it and lay it out over the couch or something to let it air out for a few hours (or overnight) after every trip to let it dry out.